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Hi guys

I'm a newbie so please go easy ok! LOL

I rode, raced and rebuilt motorbikes all through my teens and 20's, now in my 40's and decided to get a little project with an old 2008 one of these. I stripped it, put a new loom in and rebuilt the engine fitting a 180cc cylinder.

Worked fine for 6 months and now it just wont start, error code says its the ignition coil so changed that and the engine light went off. Great! Actually no unfortunately.

I upgraded the air filter and made the hole bigger hoping it waas just a compression issue but alas no....

I'm stuck, I figure looking at the kits that I probably need to get either a new exaust, remappable ECU or both.

Can you remap the original ECU??

Help

Thanks
 

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2008 YZF-R125 (180cc)
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> Worked fine for 6 months and now it just wont start, error code says its the ignition coil so changed that and the engine light went off. Great! Actually no unfortunately.
worked "fine" without a remap? Mine sounded awful when I tested it on 180 with the 125 map so I'm a little surprised by that...are you sure it's not got a piggyback ecu tucked in the tail somewhere?

> I upgraded the air filter and made the hole bigger hoping it waas just a compression issue but alas no....
my 180 is on stock intake stuff apart from a k+n filter. I think the intake tract can be better but I've not started on that, but also never had any problems because of that re running.


> I'm stuck, I figure looking at the kits that I probably need to get either a new exaust, remappable ECU or both.
idk how you get to needing a new exhaust. Tbh an aftermarket exhaust would likely flow better, which means better scavenging from the ports which means even leaner mixture.. so may actually do more damage than good currently.

Remappable ecu would prob be a good idea in general for a 180, esp if you put an exhaust too, but if it worked before i don't see why it shouldn't be working now as it was. Mine ran on the 125 map it just sounded horrible.

Have you checked the basics... e.g does it have compression - i.e. stick a socket in the hole on the stator-side and turn it over by hand - you should be able to feel it making compression every 2nd rotation of the crank.

My concern would be running it for 6mo without fuel enrichment (and presumably you've been ragging the sh!t out of it along the way) that it would be running lean during that time which means it can get too hot and that's how you melt holes in pistons/rings... but if it has compression then it's not that. I guess it's possible you've melted something else but I'd have thought the piston would be the first to go,

Maybe pull the spark plug and post a pic of it looking at the electrode end, ideally in good natural lighting/daylight and take the pic an angle where we can just start to see into the gap next to the electrode. The colour of the plug should tell us something about what's been going on in there.

If it's got comp and the plug is ok then I guess we'd be into testing fuel, air and spark individually... but let's see what the plug and compression say first...
 
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