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Originally posted by Henal.
First we will need some tools:
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Tools and things pictured:
A. Wrenches and common tools
B. Yamalube 4-S 10w/40 Semi-Synthetic
C. Genuine Yamaha Air Filter
D. Genuine Yamaha Oil Filter
E. NGK Spark Plug CR8E
F. Chain Cleaning Brush
G. Castrol Racing Chain Lube
H. Biketek Paddock Stand
I. Oil Drip Tray
J. Gear oil 80W-90 (not required to put in the bike, this is used for cleaning / lubricating the chain).
K. Paraffin/ Kerosene (both the same thing )
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How to: YZF R125 Changing Engine Oil/ Oil filter Service Procedure
The engine oil should be changed at every 1800 miles (3000km)
The engine oil filter should be changed at every 3500 miles (6000km)
From the tools we will need:
1. Set of wrench with different size sockets
2. Oil Drip Pan
3. Paddock Stand (makes it a lot easier to work with but not needed)
Serviceable:
• Yamalube 4-S 10w/40 (Semi-Synthetic or Fully Synthetic )
• Oil filter
• Some rags/tissues
The first step is to get the engine warm go take it out on a little ride around the block would do because we want the oil to be nice and warm so we can have a bath in it.
We want the engine warm as this will make the oil flow out a lot easier.
I’m going to go along as using a paddock stand as I’ve got it and you lot should buy it but the side stand would do.
Position the bike on the paddock stand and put the oil drip tray right under the drain bolt also from under the riders seat where the original toolkit is kept there is a mini metal tray which is called “engine oil drain attachment” it directs the flow of oil away from the exhaust if you haven’t got it not a big deal you will just have to clean your exhaust after.
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This is where things get dirty and oily start by removing the oil filler cap (dipstick) then unbolt the drain bolt and be careful as there is a spring and a strainer, which will come out flying if you don’t remove the drain bolt slowly, just accept your hands will get dirty.
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While the engine oil is draining it’s time to remove the oil filter cover.
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Unbolt the three bolts holding the cover and remove the dirty oil filter and discard it, give everything a good wipe and reinstall the new one the correct way, it can only go one way otherwise the cover won’t close, the bolts must be tighten to 10Nm.
Once all the oil has drained out you need to put the drain bolt back in this is where you need to be a little carful as you have to put the oil strainer then the spring and then the drain bolt, start turning the drain bolt by hand then tighten it to 32Nm.
Next fill her up with fresh new quality oil, oil goes in the oil filler cap (dipstick)
Once the whole bottle is empty don’t discard it as all your old oil from the oil drip tray can go in there and then you can dispose of it.
Make sure you stick the dipstick back in.
Almost done now,
OPTIONAL: One last step is you start the bike up and check if the oil is flowing and has pressure, to do this you will need to unbolt the oil check bolt and see if any oil starts squirting out as soon as you see it close it back and if you don’t see any oil within one min then turn the bike off and contact a Yamaha dealer DO NOT REV THE BIKE IN THIS STEP make sure the bolt is tighten to 7Nm.
![]()
If everything went well, reinstall your panels and
YOU’RE DONE
First we will need some tools:
Tools and things pictured:
A. Wrenches and common tools
B. Yamalube 4-S 10w/40 Semi-Synthetic
D. Genuine Yamaha Oil Filter
H. Biketek Paddock Stand
I. Oil Drip Tray
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How to: YZF R125 Changing Engine Oil/ Oil filter Service Procedure
The engine oil should be changed at every 1800 miles (3000km)
The engine oil filter should be changed at every 3500 miles (6000km)
From the tools we will need:
1. Set of wrench with different size sockets
2. Oil Drip Pan
3. Paddock Stand (makes it a lot easier to work with but not needed)
Serviceable:
• Yamalube 4-S 10w/40 (Semi-Synthetic or Fully Synthetic )
• Oil filter
• Some rags/tissues
The first step is to get the engine warm go take it out on a little ride around the block would do because we want the oil to be nice and warm so we can have a bath in it.
We want the engine warm as this will make the oil flow out a lot easier.
I’m going to go along as using a paddock stand as I’ve got it and you lot should buy it but the side stand would do.
Position the bike on the paddock stand and put the oil drip tray right under the drain bolt also from under the riders seat where the original toolkit is kept there is a mini metal tray which is called “engine oil drain attachment” it directs the flow of oil away from the exhaust if you haven’t got it not a big deal you will just have to clean your exhaust after.
This is where things get dirty and oily start by removing the oil filler cap (dipstick) then unbolt the drain bolt and be careful as there is a spring and a strainer, which will come out flying if you don’t remove the drain bolt slowly, just accept your hands will get dirty.
While the engine oil is draining it’s time to remove the oil filter cover.
Unbolt the three bolts holding the cover and remove the dirty oil filter and discard it, give everything a good wipe and reinstall the new one the correct way, it can only go one way otherwise the cover won’t close, the bolts must be tighten to 10Nm.
Once all the oil has drained out you need to put the drain bolt back in this is where you need to be a little carful as you have to put the oil strainer then the spring and then the drain bolt, start turning the drain bolt by hand then tighten it to 32Nm.
Next fill her up with fresh new quality oil, oil goes in the oil filler cap (dipstick)
Once the whole bottle is empty don’t discard it as all your old oil from the oil drip tray can go in there and then you can dispose of it.
Make sure you stick the dipstick back in.
Almost done now,
OPTIONAL: One last step is you start the bike up and check if the oil is flowing and has pressure, to do this you will need to unbolt the oil check bolt and see if any oil starts squirting out as soon as you see it close it back and if you don’t see any oil within one min then turn the bike off and contact a Yamaha dealer DO NOT REV THE BIKE IN THIS STEP make sure the bolt is tighten to 7Nm.
If everything went well, reinstall your panels and
YOU’RE DONE
