[BigKenDog]

Hey guys
I'll keep it as brief as I can
Bought a new r125 2022, so struggling to find information on it,

Trying to sort out a phone mount
I've just bought this

Aluminium Flanged Top Yoke Nut M22x(1.00mm) Open (LTYOKEO50)

Aluminium Centre Stem Yoke Nut. M22 x 1.00mm. Replace dull and rusty nuts with our light, bright versions a great way to keep your motorbike looking fresh. Available in 7 anodised aluminium colours.

www.pro-bolt.com

It's for last year's model, hoping it works for 22

If anyone has any advice on what's best to use or what else I might need for the job, as im to understand it holds the front wheel to the body so I don't want to mess it up.

Trying to mount a Garmin Zumo xt...

 

[NorthCust]

if it's not a dumb question how does the stem nut affect the phone mount or are they two separate things you're trying to do? sorry if I've missed something

I gotta say personally I think these aluminium stem nuts are possibly dangerous. A friend wanted one fitting to their bike as part of an overhaul and I politely declined to do that mod once I'd seen it.

As you correctly say, the stem holds the entire front end on so it's not really an area to compromise strength in any way at all. And yes there are the 3 slim nuts/disks which go on the head bearing which should prevent any catastrophic failure..probably...unless they don't. If the main nut wasn't that important why bother with it at all and why such a massive torque required? idk. Just seemed too risky for me for those puny little threads.

Whilst these ali nuts might be ok I'm pretty sure they're intended as single use items (e.g. for racing) so you tighten it once and the next time you throw it away and fit a new one, which in the biking-on-a-budget community is likely to get overlooked.

My dirt bike has aluminium axles and ali nuts (admittedly not ali->steel but close enough) and has a similar sized nut (24mm vs 27mm for the yam), and that holds the back wheel on (equally critical) and is supposed to be tightened to only 44nm. The yam service manual states 110nm as the torque for the stem nut:

110nm is a LOT for anything on this bike so clearly they mean business. I think the flywheel nut is only about 75nm and the clutch basket is 70, similar Very Large Critical Gears inside the engine are in the 60s and 70s and they're all significant chunks of steel.

I may be wrong and maybe it's totally fine but I have messed up my fair share of threads over the years and to me 110nm seems to be too much torque for too weak a material, in too critical a location, to risk affecting its integrity in any way at all. This would apply especially if your bike is modified and operating beyond intended parameters. Faster bike = bigger forces, which isnt' the time to weaken any critical connections which hold the entire bike together.

If you do use it, please maybe consider it a single use item and use a fresh one if you ever need to take it off again.

You can save more weight with less risk by going to the bathroom before you ride

 

[BigKenDog]

So I bought a ram stem mount thing
Popped the nut off, and replaced it with the aluminium one, torqued it up and looks and feels the same so will keep you updated if it goes wrong

But typically I must have ballswd up the ram stem mount and even though it's secured in the hole and I wiped away the grease... It spins around ever so slightly so if anyone knows of a great stem mount with a ball joint on the end please let me know

 

[NorthCust]

Popped the nut off, and replaced it with the aluminium one, torqued it up and looks and feels the same so will keep you updated if it goes wrong

oh great. I mean i'd like to think that these things are ok in practice but it wouldn't be the first time something had been built and sold without (apparently) being tested on the thing it's meant to be used on (looking at you R&G heated grips).

ah so the mount goes under the stem nut? I see, hence replacing the nut.

But typically I must have ballswd up the ram stem mount and even though it's secured in the hole and I wiped away the grease... It spins around ever so slightly so if anyone knows of a great stem mount with a ball joint on the end please let me know

I happened to have holes already drilled in my yoke from having the motox bars fitted previously so went for a fairly low-tech solution for my tomtom ball mount. It's very solid though. Thankfully the clunky plate is usually hidden by the tomtom unit, though you have to tilt the tomtom to get the key out. Doesn't the gen3 have little slots cut in the yoke where you could mount something on in a similar way? (but perhaps space it better than I did).

Is it the ram mount which takes a 16mm ball adapter cos if so I may have even bought one whilst looking for a solution to my tomtom (but it was the wrong size for me). I had to make a ball mount correctly sized for the tomtom

 

[BigKenDog]

I went from this

to this

And bought this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RAM-GPS-Mount-RAM-B-342U-Stand/dp/B001RHVS8I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=BH2W471PFG97&keywords=ram+stem+mount&qid=1655164995&sprefix=ram+stem+mount%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-3

But struggling to stop it spining
Holds my Garmin sat Nav great with he balls and clamp
I just need to tighten it better perhaps or get a better stem

Been looking at heated grips but don't know where I'd connect the controller module to the bike so putting it off ATM

 

[NorthCust]

aah i see what you mean now - and also why you needed the other nut. The oem nut looks like it's anodized so would be aluminium too - in which case I guess maybe they're ok? idk just seemed a bit flimsy to me vs oem (on gen1).

> But struggling to stop it spining

maybe a layer or two of insulation tape wrapped round the rubber bit to give a tighter fit? or even a bit of araldite/jbweld or similar if it's the whole mount which is turning in the hole?

> Been looking at heated grips but don't know where I'd connect the controller module to the bike so putting it off ATM

the heated grips are great but fitting was not quite as straightforward as implied. If you follow the instructions exactly (on the R&G ones anyway) there's a good chance of damaging the heating wires during trimming.

First pic shows where I mounted the controller (on the upright bit on the left, little red button). IT's a bit of a lean to reach but I don't tend to adjust it often while riding. Second pic shows results of a small handlebar fire as a result of following the fitting instructions and thus a damaged heating wire.

I also used a relay with a signal wire from the ignition so that the grips can only be turned on when the ignition is on, but without running the actual grips off the ignition wiring and potentially overloading that circuit. By detault they wire straight to the battery but then you can easily forget to turn them off.