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Discussion in 'Members Bikes / Blogs' started by NorthCust, Nov 28, 2018.
I would say yes
Some pics from fitting the temp probe and other randomness...
the temp probe.. it's in what I believe is the return pipe for the radiator so whilst it's not quite as good a location for temp as the main temp sensor, I haven't got a reading from that and won't have till I have the POD-300 controller/display so this is the next best thing and should tell me if she's having a meltdown...
here's my replacement section of pipe to replace the coolant pump return..hopefully it fits in the space
You can force it to fit exactly in the normal positions but I felt happier with the radiator a little more relaxed since it is pretty tight in there already. The bottom of the rad angled forward a little gives more room for the hose + sensor but does mean you have to adjust the holes in the fairing, but it's ok they're behind the boomerang panel so you don't even see the adjustment.
The mount whcih came wiht the temp dial wasn't going to fit anywhere so I just made one out of ali sheet. Was going to secure it with 3 panel screws but one worked fine and less drilling in my baby's plastics..
the temp sensor seems to assume you're fitting to a car where body = ground.. not the case here so had to include positive and negative. Easiest way to get a positive connection was this arrangement wiht a bored-out ring terminal which just fitted over the core of the sensor. Given you've got both + and - in close proximity there and don't wanna blow the fuse on the ignition which it's piggybacked off, I had to make sure the contacts were very well insulated!
wires wires wires...always wires fs
empty bags but back together and just back from doing a week's shopping. Rorty and naughty
That rear winter tyre (IRC urban snow M+S rated) is really grippy in the dry but horrendous in the wet. Could be because of the chunky tread or maybe I need to run lower pressure but the first time out in the wet I nearly went straight in to the back of someone and I'd left plenty of room to brake and wasn't actually going like a nutter either. Have lost the back end a couple of times since in slight whiff of humidity. Sketchy AF, which is wierd bc the Heidenau K77 rear (i think that was the model) was *amazeballs* in the wet and even the frost. Still got the heidenau winter front on and nothing sticks like it
TFW you just got your bike sorted and wanna riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiide for weeks but there's a goddam global pandemic wtf this is poop.
Lol. The past few weeks have been wonderful. Virtually empty roads and a motorbike. What bliss! You should get a job in the supply chain for the NHS and then your classed as a 'key worker'.
I actually used to work for the NHS driving doctors around in the night so if this had been a year ago I'd have been right out in the thick of it. unfrotunately for some reason working there meant I got poop on by everyone from my bike insurance to the little scrotes nicking stuff off my bike on christmas day while we were out helping ppl not die. Eventually as a final "fcuk you" from the machine I got auto-terminated by the system along with all other zero hours folks when a new company took over the nhs contract, which happened to be just as my friend died so I didn't have the head to sort the paperwork to fix it . Loved the work and the people but everything else about it sucked ass.
Tbh there'd be nobody stopping me going out now plus they'd have to catch me first, but idk - just seems like the stakes are unacceptably high now in case soemthing then goes wrong..(my partner is pretty ill so if she gets it it's probably game over, and obviously I'd rather not).
I've dug out a mountain bike so I can get back on 2 wheels a bit at least in the mean time
the R15 clutch is in at long last! no more clutch slip \o/
Crikey that was a voyage of discovery tho. Not so bad when you know how but yikes Finally I can finish the video now.
As you'd expect from having 6 beefy uprated springs rather than 4 smaller ones, the clutch lever action is a *lot* stiffer, and is especially noticable as I've got a 1-finger lever for the clutch. It seems to work though and dropping the clutch now boots one the ass with no negotiation. Front wheel came up a little in second just gunning it from a slow roll which was a fun surprise. I'm still grinning from the little test trip out shopping B-)
I've left the plastics off for the moment as there's a few bits I want to tidy up, repaint and clean over the next few days. Also want to put the summer wheels on etc. Finally no more slip tho \o/.
I can't really tell if it's helped the top end or not as it was quite windy. She pulled a casual 81 on the way back which is certainly no worse than before, and there was no hesitation. Aero seemed to be my issue more than anything else. it's hard to describe but it felt a bit different.
I'm half tempted to put the oem clipons back on just to see if we can break 85 but my shoulders are already aching at the idea
So a conversation on twitter the other day got me thinking. I was describing the symptoms of the slightly lacklustre top end and their suggestion was "bigger main jet". Whilst obvs it's EFI, actually I think they might still be correct...
I wonder if the reason I'm not getting the top end yet is perhaps becuse the current injector is too small - and whilst I can increase the fuel delivery up to +250% on the power commander, that only works if there's time between firing cycles for it to stay open 250%... which I bet at 8k+ .. there ain't.
So I'm thinking that if one were to reach a point where the injector is basically just "ON", then it wouldn't matter what the number in the PCV is.. if there's only (for example) +30% time between cycles, then +30% is the most you're gonna get fuelling-wise, regardless whether you set the PCV to +250%. Also the point you'd see that come into play would be at high rpm (which is where I am seeing the issue).
So I'm considering putting the other injector I have in (blue, 10 hole, unknown cc) and see if that can inject more fuel in the same timeframe, and whether that might help reclaim the top end without having to delve into the cam and stuff just yet.
It would be a bit annoying trying to map it without the wideband but haven't had time to get that sorted yet either (the virus etch-a-sketched my work life just as I got it nice) , but I'm hoping that even if i just put the injector in and leave the map as is, it should give me enough of an idea to see whether the idea is correct or not.
I've also had a look at the cam and am not sure I can drill the hole that's needed with enough accuracy. I mean for £25 or whatever the cam cost it could still be worth a go, since I doubt my machine shop is open currently.. but idk :-\ It's just a hole but presumably it needs to be drilled exactly square on to the end of the cam so that the decomp lever ends up in the right place etc. The malossi cam comes with the hole pre-drilled but I'm also not paying £250+ for one lol.
watch this space..
Clutch upgrade video/details finished at long last \o/. Easy when you know how but crikey getting to that point was a mission!