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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
The engine is put back together. But not flooded with fluids yet. Not in the frame. ;)

What interesting did I notice when reassembling the Airsal cylinder? sediment, dust, on the cylinder.
I rubbed the cylinder gently with 1000 sandpaper. Gently two three times
Here's the effect
20210116_131941.jpg
20210116_131949.jpg

Here you can see the bottom of the cylinder but there was a similar dust on top. I don't know why it looks like this, but I hope that removing this dust will solve the leakage problem from under the head.

Best solution for this would be to have pins instead of bolts to be sure not to damage block against thread pulling but thats whole diferent story ;)
Can you write something more about it?

Should I get just the head pins? and separate nuts for screwing the head on?
 

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Bud you splitting hairs about cylinder all is ok, thats just after manufacturing proces. About pins+nuts you can buy aftermarket set for this engine it's always safer for tread in block to just pull on thread and just pull with pins fitted, if you twist and pull chances are much grater of damaging tread with bolts .
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
I know it's a production process. But it's better to clean it up.
the engine is so far twisted on the original pins a second time,I started the engine for 10 minutes and nothing is leaking from it for this time. If it's warmer in the weather, I'll better check it.



I got the head studs and nuts from yamaha x max. I understand that now it is enough to unscrew the original ones and screw them in with X max? screw them on some type of glue
anaerobic for example K2 w234 medium strength ?
33867
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Anyone know something whether to glue these pins to the crankcase? or maybe it's better to screw without glue?
 

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if you look in the service manual the original head bolts are supposed to have oil on the threads, so I wouldn't go threadlocking studs in there. None of this is going to mega torques anyway.
 
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