Hi Guys,
Following my request for help thread, this is my 'how to' guide for changing the front cowling/headlight fairing/nose cone (and or the headlights).
First make sure you got the right tools and bits, all I needed was:
![Image]()
1. First there are 3 philips head screws at the bottom underneath the nose cone. 2 underneath the lights and 1 in the middle roughly below the bottom of the screen.
![Image]()
![Image]()
2. There is a philips head screw under the handle grips. (on each side)
![Image]()
3. There is an alan key bolt below to the dip lights and a philips head screw just above them (on both sides)
![Image]()
4. Remove the mirrors by the two alan keys on them.
![Image]()
At this point I also removed the screen because I didn't know if I needed too and I needed to put it on the new nose cone anyway. I advise do the same so you can take it off clean behind it and avoid it getting damaged later on.
The upper side cowling is attached to the nose cone by a small plastic clip so at this stage although the cone is loose you will not be able to remove it.
![Image]()
In The picture above I am holding the upper side cowling just below the side of the nose cone.
There was no apparent way to remove the nose cone without taking off the upper side cowling.
To take of the upper side cowling you have to take off the side panels and a small plastic panel just next to the seat.
5. To take off the side panel take off the two alan key bolts (both quite apparent). If you have crash bungs one of the alan keys is the bolt that goes through the crash bung. And a small philips head screw right at the bottom of the side panel.
6. Once that is removed there is two alan key bolts on the panel just below the seat, you can prize it away just slightly away from the bike (i didnt need to remove completely). Once you remove these you can get to a philips head screw that secures the upper side cowling.
![Image]()
![Image]()
7. Then there are 2 or 3 more alan key bolts on the upper side cowling (all quite apparent). Once you have done this you can slip the plastic clip out of the nose cone (mentioned at the end of step 4. - push forward) and the upper side cowlings will come away from the bike. Reminder the indicators are connected to the upper side cowling, so make sure you undo the clips before taking off completely.
![Image]()
![Image]()
8. You should now be able to remove the nose cone with a very small amount of jiggling. If it doesn't come off make sure you go through all steps and check that you've done everything. When you take it off you will notice that the cables are tied to the fairing on the inside, the only way to get the unit off fully is to cut these. BUMP EDIT: Gweglez noted that you can actually unclip the wires at the intermediate connectors, so if you are not changing the nose cone completely this will be easier than cutting the cable ties. So note where they are approximately and also be careful not to cut the wires themselves. You will then obviously need to replace them in similar places (I only needed 3)
Sorry no pics couldn't take any whilst the unit was hanging.
9. To disconnect the low beam you can just gently prize the connector off the back of the bulb, be sure that you don't dislodge the bulb and if you do put it back as this can affect the way your light beam projects.
![Image]()
10.To disconnect the High beam you turn the back of the bulb fitting and the whole piece will come out of the headlight.
![Image]()
11.The dipped lights are just pushed in with rubber protectors around the connector so you just need to gently pull them out.
![Image]()
You should now be able to take the whole fairing piece away from the bike. So you can replace it with a new one. To put everything back together do the same steps in reverse. I would take this moment to make use of the fact you got all the pieces off to give them a clean and also some of the parts on the bike that were obstructed by these bits.
Only thing to note is to put cable ties through the new nose cone (like I have done below, and leave them untied until you get the cone back on the bike and secured) this way you can then push the wires into them and close them after. Use the pair of wire cutters or strong scissors to cut the excess cable tie off. I only needed 3.
![Image]()
Here is a few pictures of the fairing off so that you can see some of the fitting positions more clearly.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
I am fairly certain I haven't left anything out but if something is not going to plan or not how I've documented it please do not hesitate to ask I'm sure I can help.
Following my request for help thread, this is my 'how to' guide for changing the front cowling/headlight fairing/nose cone (and or the headlights).
First make sure you got the right tools and bits, all I needed was:
- A philips head screwdriver (average size).
- Torque screwdriver and variable head set (not essential but I found it easier
- Alan Keys
- Head Torch or sufficient lighting
- Pair of wire cutters (some strong scissors will do)
- About 5 or 6 Cable Ties - These are quite important because the wires under the fairings were tied to them, have to cut them to get the thing off and will need to be replaced. Would be really annoying not to have around after taking everything off and putting it all back.
- A soft towel to put fairings down etc and a place to put the little screws down in orderly fashion so you can remember where they go.
- Some cleaning products, you are undoubtedly going to find some dirt and you can use this as an advantage to get to those little nooks and crannies you can't always get to when cleaning.
1. First there are 3 philips head screws at the bottom underneath the nose cone. 2 underneath the lights and 1 in the middle roughly below the bottom of the screen.
2. There is a philips head screw under the handle grips. (on each side)
4. Remove the mirrors by the two alan keys on them.
At this point I also removed the screen because I didn't know if I needed too and I needed to put it on the new nose cone anyway. I advise do the same so you can take it off clean behind it and avoid it getting damaged later on.
The upper side cowling is attached to the nose cone by a small plastic clip so at this stage although the cone is loose you will not be able to remove it.
In The picture above I am holding the upper side cowling just below the side of the nose cone.
There was no apparent way to remove the nose cone without taking off the upper side cowling.
To take of the upper side cowling you have to take off the side panels and a small plastic panel just next to the seat.
5. To take off the side panel take off the two alan key bolts (both quite apparent). If you have crash bungs one of the alan keys is the bolt that goes through the crash bung. And a small philips head screw right at the bottom of the side panel.
6. Once that is removed there is two alan key bolts on the panel just below the seat, you can prize it away just slightly away from the bike (i didnt need to remove completely). Once you remove these you can get to a philips head screw that secures the upper side cowling.
7. Then there are 2 or 3 more alan key bolts on the upper side cowling (all quite apparent). Once you have done this you can slip the plastic clip out of the nose cone (mentioned at the end of step 4. - push forward) and the upper side cowlings will come away from the bike. Reminder the indicators are connected to the upper side cowling, so make sure you undo the clips before taking off completely.
8. You should now be able to remove the nose cone with a very small amount of jiggling. If it doesn't come off make sure you go through all steps and check that you've done everything. When you take it off you will notice that the cables are tied to the fairing on the inside, the only way to get the unit off fully is to cut these. BUMP EDIT: Gweglez noted that you can actually unclip the wires at the intermediate connectors, so if you are not changing the nose cone completely this will be easier than cutting the cable ties. So note where they are approximately and also be careful not to cut the wires themselves. You will then obviously need to replace them in similar places (I only needed 3)
Sorry no pics couldn't take any whilst the unit was hanging.
9. To disconnect the low beam you can just gently prize the connector off the back of the bulb, be sure that you don't dislodge the bulb and if you do put it back as this can affect the way your light beam projects.
10.To disconnect the High beam you turn the back of the bulb fitting and the whole piece will come out of the headlight.
11.The dipped lights are just pushed in with rubber protectors around the connector so you just need to gently pull them out.
You should now be able to take the whole fairing piece away from the bike. So you can replace it with a new one. To put everything back together do the same steps in reverse. I would take this moment to make use of the fact you got all the pieces off to give them a clean and also some of the parts on the bike that were obstructed by these bits.
Only thing to note is to put cable ties through the new nose cone (like I have done below, and leave them untied until you get the cone back on the bike and secured) this way you can then push the wires into them and close them after. Use the pair of wire cutters or strong scissors to cut the excess cable tie off. I only needed 3.
Here is a few pictures of the fairing off so that you can see some of the fitting positions more clearly.
I am fairly certain I haven't left anything out but if something is not going to plan or not how I've documented it please do not hesitate to ask I'm sure I can help.
