Tried the heatgun method, and it doesn't work that well on our headlights due to the thin plastic. When going over the seams it's the plastic itself that gets hot (and starts to melt) You might succeed where I failed, but the oven method is MUCH safer and MUCH easier!!!i dont like the idea of putting headlights in the oven, so i would just use a heat gun
Lol, yeahI could get away with being a PO PO with them in rapid flashing mode lol I'd could be Moses...on a bike!
Looks really good Oskar I'm loving it, I have a aesthetic question tho, our bikes when on the move have a single headlight on yeah? How does that effect the whole look of the eyes?
Ride with no lights on, just angel eyes at the Pure White setting. Will look amazing!Lol, yeahThe regular commute would go SOOOO much quicker
Well, I've done the "no headlight mod" so I can have either:
No headlights on at all
Just angel eyes on
One headlight on
One headlight on + angel eyes
Two headlights on
Two headlights on + angel eyes
So I have many options
BUT I haven't tried with headlights on(It's too cold out + my battery is kind of dead lol
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YeahjamesyR125 said:Ride with no lights on, just angel eyes at the Pure White setting. Will look amazing!
plus you can cook a potatoe and heat your lights easily in the oven, its pretty hard to cook a potatoe and heat your light with a heat gunTried the heatgun method, and it doesn't work that well on our headlights due to the thin plastic. When going over the seams it's the plastic itself that gets hot (and starts to melt) You might succeed where I failed, but the oven method is MUCH safer and MUCH easier!!!
Lol, EXACTLY!plus you can cook a potatoe and heat your lights easily in the oven, its pretty hard to cook a potatoe and heat your light with a heat gun
do you have a tutorial for how to have no lights?Lol, yeahThe regular commute would go SOOOO much quicker
Well, I've done the "no headlight mod" so I can have either:
No headlights on at all
Just angel eyes on
One headlight on
One headlight on + angel eyes
Two headlights on
Two headlights on + angel eyes
So I have many options
BUT I haven't tried with headlights on(It's too cold out + my battery is kind of dead lol
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http://r125forum.com/threads/no-lights-with-engine-on.2243/do you have a tutorial for how to have no lights?
Cheers mate, I bought them from a company called "diode dynamics"sit4r said:Nicely done, they look amazing and I would like them on my bike tooPlease tell me, where did you buy them?
Well, you can control it, it's not like the lights are turned off forever mate! And I do loads of miles every week, and have had no problem with this (even though I've passed countless policecars)advisable for people who only ride once a week and on short travels.
blackizzz, have you tried LED's with aluminium coolers? Those are bigger but at least you can manage to get it s little cooler since the LED itself produces a lot of concentrated heat
Well, you can control it, it's not like the lights are turned off forever mate! And I do loads of miles every week, and have had no problem with this (even though I've passed countless policecars)
And nope, I haven't, because they won't fit without destroying the light housing, and plus, having a heatsink isn't going to help unless you have a way for the air to be circulated.
Where have you gotten emergency switch from?Jorgeous Jorge said:I wasn't talking about the police, I was talking about weak batteries, if you start it up and then you turn it off on the emergency switch, the headlight will drain the battery pretty quickly, learned it the bad way :s I know Blackizzz but some help is better than none, like water radiators on summer days (it is pretty hot outside but it is still cooler than the engine temperature) although I don't know what is "hotter" the bulb infrared radiation or the LED temperature. Edit: I searched a little and the best LED's are the ones that use a ceramic base with gold or silver connections. It means the LED runs cooler than the 130ºC environment. One thing, the led resistance to temperature also depends of the current passing through them, if you run 50mA it won't survive as easily as running them at 25mA if made to withstand a 50mA current because that current is largely tested on favorable conditions at the Lab. And, if you test yourself with various ratings of resistors you will conclude that the changes of brightness are minimal after X mA being that X a little above half the maximum current at favorable conditions (T<25ºC)