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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi i was at my girlfriends so i parked my bike up i just went back out started it and i had no lights,

  • I've done the dual headlight mod
  • I've changed fuses
  • I've changed bulbs
  • I'm running xenon headlights
  • both the main beam and hi beam are gone but sidelight still work
  • i presume its a wiring issue
so can someone please help me I'm really struggling
 

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On mine the wiring to the headlight hangs down a bit, after a while the connector block gets pulled off the back of the lens and the lights go out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What do I do they are still plugged into the bulb I think the big wires hang down
Under my nose cone too
 

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If the head light fuse is ok and the ignition is on then the pass switch should make the high beams work unless the bulb has gone or there is a wiring issue. If the pass switch is working then it could be the headlight relay thats gone under the passenger seat. Worse case it could be that the ecu isn't switching the headlight relay on when the bikes running but there are ways round this if thats the case :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I click high beam the light doesn't even come on but the bulbs not blown because the engine check bulb at the start is fine
 

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If you have a way of testing for +12v, then with the ignition on, see if there is +12v on either of the red/yellow wires that go into the headlight relay. The white and black goes to the ecu to energise the relay the blue and black for the headlights but the pass switch bypasses the relay . With the pass switch not working for the high beam you shouldn't have any power on the red/yellow wire with the ignition on. If there is power then it could be the connection to the left hand switch gear (can't remember if there is and where that connector is if there is one). If there is no power then you will have to see if there is power after the fuse and trace it from there. There is definitely power to the fuse box as all the other stuff to run the bike runs from the same feed wire to the fuse box.

If you're okay with wiring diagrams there is one in the back of the pdf workshop manual on this site somewhere, worth a look to see if you can figure it out sooner than I can reply to you when I get the chance haha
 

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Could you post me a step by step guide
On what area exactly? Do you have a little multi meter or something to check if there is voltage? if not then you could do it using a bulb or something similar. one side of the bulb to the negative of the bike ( Direct contact with the metal of the bike) and then the positive to the wire you are testing for 12 volts.

I'll try my best to help you where I can, just let me know where you need the help and I will get back to you when I get chance :)

Another quick question does the horn work? just seen on the wiring diagram that there are 2 connectors coming from the left hand switch gear, one with 6 wires and one with 3. The one with 3 has the high and low beam lights positive 12v feed and also the horns negative 12v feed. So if the horn doesn't work then it could well be the 3 pin connector has disconnected some how . The colours of the wires are yellow, green and black.
 

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Then its unlikely to be that connector. from the wiring drawings I can only see it being no power after the fuse. maybe a bad connection from the fuse box. if you take the passenger seat off. removed the connector for the headlight relay and check if there is 12v on the red/yellow wires with the ignition on.

If not then test if there is 12v out of the fuse box on the headlight fuse. The side lights, indicators and horn all use a different fuse so that's why they still work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have nothing to yet it with pal and is the passenger seat the pillion seat I'm really appreciating all your help
 

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yes passenger seat is the pillion seat sorry haha, was speaking to a mate the other day and said about the pillion seat and he had no idea what a pillion was so I just say passenger now haha

I have nothing to yet it with pal
Was that supposed to be test? sorry haha. if yes I will try and describe how to test it with a 12v bulb rather than a tester. you only need a cheap multimeter to test for 12v, worth getting one for when you have electrical problems like this haha.

testing for 12v will help narrow down where the problem is, it could well be the cables buggered but its more likely to be a plug or connection somewhere not made.

No problem with helping you mate, I kind of enjoy fault finding on electrics :nerd: , as the more practice I do the better I am for when I need it at work on the electrical cabinets.
 

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Hey I have a yzfr125 and I'm from the UK.. We had a boiling hot day and my bike didn't start. I threw cold water over the temp sensor to cool it down and then she started.. But since that day I have no headlights or pass and high beam available.. My side lights still work but nothing more... What can I look at to get my lights back please.. Tia.
 

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if you threw cold water over the temp sensor, that's on the right, correct? Just above that tucked inside the plastics is where the headlight wiring loom meets the main wiring loom. Iirc it's in two parts and there's a sort of half rubber boot whcih is meant to keep water and crap out (and usually doesn't do that great a job of it). Chances are some water got in there and maybe blew a fuse.

Fuse box is the little wee box under the seat next to the battery, maybe pull each of the fuses in sequence till you find which one is the headlight loom (or look it up in the service manual) and see whether that's what's blown.

Pls note if there is still water in your headlight wiring putting a new fuse in might just blow again. You might have to blow some compressed air in those connectors or something to clean them out, though if it's been stood in the dry/hot since then it migh tbe ok as is.

Once it's all workign again it could potentially also be an idea to wrap those connectors in plastic or somethign and ziptie it closed to give them a bit better protection fro the elements if those rubber boots are damaged/missing.

It's easier to access & fix all that wiring stuff with the right shoulder panel removed.

Hope that helps..if not let us know your findings and we can go from there :)

If you have a multimeter that can be helpful in diagnosing electrical faults too.. the wiring loom on these isn't very big or complex so you can pretty much test how far the electricity is getting. Good chance it's just a fuse tho.
 
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