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Remove the bar ends.
Just a nice big allen key, and a good amount of strength removes these.
They can be quite stiff, but do just screw out.
![]()
![]()
On the throttle side, remove the grip from the NYLON THROTTLE SLEEVE.
Wedge your screwdriver between rubber and the plastic bit!
Use a flat head screw driver and wedge it in all around the grip to break the glue that is there.
You should hear the glue cracking.
![]()
You may wish to use some WD40 to help remove the glue and to aid sliding the grip off the bar.
![]()
On the clutch side, you put your screwdriver between the rubber and the metal, as there is no throttle slider.
![]()
Clean the bar ready for the new grips.
You must remove all the existing WD40, and remove any remaining glue.
Use sand paper if you must.
![]()
Dry run the new grips.
Slide the new grips on, and see that they fit, and do not obstruct anything.
Put the bar end on, and trim the ends of the grip as necessary with a sharp knife.
Most bar grips will have a clear line for you to cut along to trim them.
You will notice one grip is slightly thicker than the other one on the inside.
The thicker one (25mm) goes on the throttle side.
The thinner one (22mm) goes on the clutch side.
![]()
Glue the new grips on.
Remove the grips again.
Apply the glue (super glue is fine) and slide them back on, quickly before the glue begins to set, ensuring that the alignment is to your liking. If you are fitting heated grips, ensure the wires do not obstruct the levers or other operations of the bike.
If the grips are particuarly tight to fit, then apply glue directly to the bars, and only at the base, meaning the grips only come in contact with the glue when they are almost completely fitted.
If the grips are loose, or easy to fit, then ensure that you apply lots of glue along the entire length of bar / grip.
Reattach bar ends, and you are done fitting the grips.
If you are fitting heated grips, you now need to route your wiring.
I chose to run the wiring near the base of the tank, behind the infill panels and under the seat.
The two grips wires join together in to a single wire.
And the control panel wire also runs this way.
![]()
![]()
Once under the seat, these two wires join the wires that connect to the battery, and the three sets of wires then run back and under the pillion seat.
![]()
Under the pillion seat, each set of wires connects to the control box, which I is hidden just out of view in this picture, at the very front of the pillion seat out of the way.
![]()
Finally.
My last step was to fit the bracket supplied which replaces the screw that holds the clutch perch on.
The control pad then sits on top of that.
![]()
A note about the wiring.
This particular set of heated grips only draw current when the control pad is ON.
When connecting to the battery terminals, it is a good habit to remove the positive (red) terminal, THEN remove the common terminal (black). Reattach the common terminal, THEN finally reattach the positive (red) terminal.
You may wish to go over your wiring with electrical tape or heat shrink to ensure that they are protected.
You also may wish to route your wires away from other existing wiring to prevent possible interference.
You may also wish to fit a relay so that the heated grips can only come on when the ignition is on. I haven't as of yet, but I intend to at some point.
Just a nice big allen key, and a good amount of strength removes these.
They can be quite stiff, but do just screw out.
On the throttle side, remove the grip from the NYLON THROTTLE SLEEVE.
Wedge your screwdriver between rubber and the plastic bit!
Use a flat head screw driver and wedge it in all around the grip to break the glue that is there.
You should hear the glue cracking.
You may wish to use some WD40 to help remove the glue and to aid sliding the grip off the bar.
On the clutch side, you put your screwdriver between the rubber and the metal, as there is no throttle slider.
Clean the bar ready for the new grips.
You must remove all the existing WD40, and remove any remaining glue.
Use sand paper if you must.
Dry run the new grips.
Slide the new grips on, and see that they fit, and do not obstruct anything.
Put the bar end on, and trim the ends of the grip as necessary with a sharp knife.
Most bar grips will have a clear line for you to cut along to trim them.
You will notice one grip is slightly thicker than the other one on the inside.
The thicker one (25mm) goes on the throttle side.
The thinner one (22mm) goes on the clutch side.
Glue the new grips on.
Remove the grips again.
Apply the glue (super glue is fine) and slide them back on, quickly before the glue begins to set, ensuring that the alignment is to your liking. If you are fitting heated grips, ensure the wires do not obstruct the levers or other operations of the bike.
If the grips are particuarly tight to fit, then apply glue directly to the bars, and only at the base, meaning the grips only come in contact with the glue when they are almost completely fitted.
If the grips are loose, or easy to fit, then ensure that you apply lots of glue along the entire length of bar / grip.
Reattach bar ends, and you are done fitting the grips.
If you are fitting heated grips, you now need to route your wiring.
I chose to run the wiring near the base of the tank, behind the infill panels and under the seat.
The two grips wires join together in to a single wire.
And the control panel wire also runs this way.
Once under the seat, these two wires join the wires that connect to the battery, and the three sets of wires then run back and under the pillion seat.
Under the pillion seat, each set of wires connects to the control box, which I is hidden just out of view in this picture, at the very front of the pillion seat out of the way.
Finally.
My last step was to fit the bracket supplied which replaces the screw that holds the clutch perch on.
The control pad then sits on top of that.
A note about the wiring.
This particular set of heated grips only draw current when the control pad is ON.
When connecting to the battery terminals, it is a good habit to remove the positive (red) terminal, THEN remove the common terminal (black). Reattach the common terminal, THEN finally reattach the positive (red) terminal.
You may wish to go over your wiring with electrical tape or heat shrink to ensure that they are protected.
You also may wish to route your wires away from other existing wiring to prevent possible interference.
You may also wish to fit a relay so that the heated grips can only come on when the ignition is on. I haven't as of yet, but I intend to at some point.
