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5,218 Posts
First of all, I would like to say that this is PERFECTLY fine for your transmission, so long as you do it properly.
If anything, it is better as it allows you to do smoother gear changes, and doesn't pollute your oil with particles from the clutch. It will also cause less wear to the clutch plates. Most (if not all?) bikes have a constant mesh, sequential gear box which allows this.
Once you get better, you will find this is the smoothest way to change gear, and will be quicker. It also sounds pretty good, especially when changing down gears.
Shifting up:
- Whilst cruising, or accelerating more likely, gently apply pressure to the gear shifter. Do not press hard, just nice a softly (but firm).
- Then, blip the throttle. This means release the throttle by about a quarter, then straight away reapply it.
- If you were applying enough pressure, then you should find that the bike just changed gear.
- You can now stop applying pressure to the gear changer.
**When you try this for the first time, you can use a tiny amount of clutch to ensure a smooth change**
Shifting Down:
- The same as up shifting, but reversed.
- Roll off the throttle and allow road and engine speed to decline.
- Once you are at a point that the revs are low enough to shift down (roughly 4 - 5k on the r125) gently apply pressure on the gear changer.
- blip the throttle on (about a quarter on the r125, perhaps less if you are on a 'big' bike).
- The gear should then nice and smoothly go in to place
**BE CAREFUL, if you do not match the revs correclty, this can potentially lock up your rear wheel**
**Start off by using some clutch to ensure a smooth change, then gradually use less clutch as you get to know your bike better, and what revs you can change at**
Blipping Explained:
This is literally just a quick flick of the wrist.
Changing up: Off / On
Changing down: On / Off
You should only have to blip a slight fraction.
As you practice, this amount you blip will become second nature.
Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible if your gearbox explodes, or you lock up your rear wheel and crash
If anything, it is better as it allows you to do smoother gear changes, and doesn't pollute your oil with particles from the clutch. It will also cause less wear to the clutch plates. Most (if not all?) bikes have a constant mesh, sequential gear box which allows this.
Once you get better, you will find this is the smoothest way to change gear, and will be quicker. It also sounds pretty good, especially when changing down gears.
Shifting up:
- Whilst cruising, or accelerating more likely, gently apply pressure to the gear shifter. Do not press hard, just nice a softly (but firm).
- Then, blip the throttle. This means release the throttle by about a quarter, then straight away reapply it.
- If you were applying enough pressure, then you should find that the bike just changed gear.
- You can now stop applying pressure to the gear changer.
**When you try this for the first time, you can use a tiny amount of clutch to ensure a smooth change**
Shifting Down:
- The same as up shifting, but reversed.
- Roll off the throttle and allow road and engine speed to decline.
- Once you are at a point that the revs are low enough to shift down (roughly 4 - 5k on the r125) gently apply pressure on the gear changer.
- blip the throttle on (about a quarter on the r125, perhaps less if you are on a 'big' bike).
- The gear should then nice and smoothly go in to place
**BE CAREFUL, if you do not match the revs correclty, this can potentially lock up your rear wheel**
**Start off by using some clutch to ensure a smooth change, then gradually use less clutch as you get to know your bike better, and what revs you can change at**
Blipping Explained:
This is literally just a quick flick of the wrist.
Changing up: Off / On
Changing down: On / Off
You should only have to blip a slight fraction.
As you practice, this amount you blip will become second nature.
Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible if your gearbox explodes, or you lock up your rear wheel and crash
