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this is a small rather large guide on how to do a clutch change, not the best in the world but it shows you what to look for and what it looks like as there arnt any of a r125 out there (none that i could find).
Tools needed:
right lets get started
get set up as if your doing an oil change
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take off the boomerang panel and the two other lower panels to get this
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this picture will be used for lots of steps so I'll do a numbered list:
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this is what it looks like with the cover off, just looking at the clutch it looks simple
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new gasket, springs and plates soaking (the pepsi can is just to displace some oil so didnt need so much)
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remove these 4 bolts with the 10mm socket, these are the clutch spring bolts, dont worry about them popping out because of the springs, the bolts are very long and the springs decompress before the bolt gets to the end of its thread (i was worried about this haha)
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bolts and springs removed
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clutch face plate off
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this is actually a pic of a few new ones been put on, got carried away
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old clutch plates, then removing the old ones remember which way the friction plates are facing, theres like a sharp edge and a round edge so make note or like i did, rememer the patten you took them off like placing them all down in the same way then doing the exact oppersite when putting them back on.
Theres also a plate in the pack thats different to the rest, that is the very last one closest to the engine, it has this small spacer thing that sits in the area that different to the rest, youll see what i mean when you get there, make sure that goes back on the same way, its like a cone sort of shape, not flat.
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friction plates - dont throw these away or damage them! some people clean with petrol or something but i didnt.
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new plates on in right order, doesnt matter which way round the new clutch plates are
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springs, old ones are on the bottom with the bolts in place and new ones are on top, the new springs are 10% stiffer.
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bolts lightly screwed in with new springs
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all bolted up and if you look at the edge of the casing i tried to get the old gasket off but its all stuck and a nightmare to get off, new blades work best and if possible change to a fresh blade a third or half way through, you'll notice the difference, ohh and dont put the blades in any holder or anything, just use your hands and be careful, this way you can feel it cutting much better and know when your catching on the case and know to back off abit, something that helped was to rub some of the old oil on the gasket and let it soak abit and after a cut you might have to do this againif the gasket is dry, will just help with it coming off but not needed, i only worked this out at the end of getting the gasket off
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all cleaned up after 3 new stanly knife blades carefully cutting away the old gasket (this part takes the longest)
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new gasket fitted and case all bolted up (tightend up in a criss cross pattern)
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oil i used
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all back together and full up with oil dont forget to check the oil is getting round the system, there is a bolt on this side of the engine head, undo it (its only a short bolt) and start the engine up, if oil starts to come out with-in 30 seconds its all working and you should put the bolt back in asap, i always let the engine cycle the oil abit before going for a ride but isnt a must if not something is wrong, turn off engine and let cool for about 20 mins, check oil level again to see if there is enough oil then try again, if not again turn off engine and get a yamaha garage to check it
i also checked to see if the clutch works, with engine running, pull the clutch in, putting it in first (holding the front brake) and slowly letting the clutch out, if it bites then all should be good, if not then somethings wrong or if when you put it in first it pulls forward then the cuts out like the clutch is out then something is wrong. these things shouldnt happen so dont worry if they do go back and make sure youve put it back together properly.
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put the panels back on and your all done
3 hours after starting this thread its done yay
any questions I'll try my best to answer
Tools needed:
- philips and H4 + H6 - for getting the 3 panels off
- 12mm socket - remove the exhaust (needed for the scorpion to get to sump plug)
- 10 and 13mm spanner - bolt that holds exhaust end can (might be different for other people, dont think mine is a genuine bolt haha)
- 19mm socket - sump plug
- 8mm socket - case and filter bolts
- 10mm socket - clutch spring bolts
- fresh stanly blades - to help remove the old gasket
- hammer and short blunt rod - help lossen up the seal of the cover
- clutch plates - CK2292 EBC Clutch Kit - ebay £34 (wemoto is now cheaper -_-)
- clutch springs - CSK24 Clutch Springs - ebay £15 (wemoto is now cheaper -_-)
- new clutch cover gasket - wemoto - around £12.50 with postage
- oil - more than 1 litre is needed, 4L castol power 1 4T 10w-40 (not racing, thats fully synth, best to stay with part synth or it with ruin your cluch slipping all the time, found out the hard way) shop around less than £30 for 4 litres
- if needed new oil filter - HF141 (product code) - ebay £3
right lets get started
get set up as if your doing an oil change
take off the boomerang panel and the two other lower panels to get this
this picture will be used for lots of steps so I'll do a numbered list:
- remove the exhaust, won't have to with the standard exhaust but i needed to with the scorpion
- use the 19mm socket and loosen the sump plug and drain the oil as if doing an oil change (if you've never done an oil change you probably shouldn't be doing this haha)
- remove the 3 bolts for the oil filter cover with the 8mm socket, be careful of oil in there and not to loose the bolts, put to one side with oil filter.
- now to remove the rest of the bolts highlighted in the picture, dont start at one place and go all the way round, alternate around to diferent ones and when removing the bolts keep them in a patten that will allow you to rember how they came out as the bolts are different lengths.
- now all the bolts are out, it will probably be stuck on like mine was, where i have drawn the green arrow there is a tab that sticks out, there are three in different places on the clutch cover but this one is the easiest to get to. this is where i put the blunt rod and used the hammer to gently but assertively tap from behind just to break the seal and then you should be able to pull the cover off.
this is what it looks like with the cover off, just looking at the clutch it looks simple
new gasket, springs and plates soaking (the pepsi can is just to displace some oil so didnt need so much)
remove these 4 bolts with the 10mm socket, these are the clutch spring bolts, dont worry about them popping out because of the springs, the bolts are very long and the springs decompress before the bolt gets to the end of its thread (i was worried about this haha)
bolts and springs removed
clutch face plate off
this is actually a pic of a few new ones been put on, got carried away
old clutch plates, then removing the old ones remember which way the friction plates are facing, theres like a sharp edge and a round edge so make note or like i did, rememer the patten you took them off like placing them all down in the same way then doing the exact oppersite when putting them back on.
Theres also a plate in the pack thats different to the rest, that is the very last one closest to the engine, it has this small spacer thing that sits in the area that different to the rest, youll see what i mean when you get there, make sure that goes back on the same way, its like a cone sort of shape, not flat.
friction plates - dont throw these away or damage them! some people clean with petrol or something but i didnt.
new plates on in right order, doesnt matter which way round the new clutch plates are
springs, old ones are on the bottom with the bolts in place and new ones are on top, the new springs are 10% stiffer.
bolts lightly screwed in with new springs
all bolted up and if you look at the edge of the casing i tried to get the old gasket off but its all stuck and a nightmare to get off, new blades work best and if possible change to a fresh blade a third or half way through, you'll notice the difference, ohh and dont put the blades in any holder or anything, just use your hands and be careful, this way you can feel it cutting much better and know when your catching on the case and know to back off abit, something that helped was to rub some of the old oil on the gasket and let it soak abit and after a cut you might have to do this againif the gasket is dry, will just help with it coming off but not needed, i only worked this out at the end of getting the gasket off
all cleaned up after 3 new stanly knife blades carefully cutting away the old gasket (this part takes the longest)
new gasket fitted and case all bolted up (tightend up in a criss cross pattern)
oil i used
all back together and full up with oil
dont forget to check the oil is getting round the system, there is a bolt on this side of the engine head, undo it (its only a short bolt) and start the engine up, if oil starts to come out with-in 30 seconds its all working and you should put the bolt back in asap, i always let the engine cycle the oil abit before going for a ride but isnt a must if not something is wrong, turn off engine and let cool for about 20 mins, check oil level again to see if there is enough oil then try again, if not again turn off engine and get a yamaha garage to check it i also checked to see if the clutch works, with engine running, pull the clutch in, putting it in first (holding the front brake) and slowly letting the clutch out, if it bites then all should be good, if not then somethings wrong or if when you put it in first it pulls forward then the cuts out like the clutch is out then something is wrong. these things shouldnt happen so dont worry
if they do go back and make sure youve put it back together properly.
put the panels back on and your all done
3 hours after starting this thread its done yay
any questions I'll try my best to answer
